Pattern Puzzle

Are you followers of Studio Faro’s Pattern Puzzles?  I stumbled across them on the internet a few weeks ago and have become completely obsessed. Anita is very generous is sharing her knowledge and manages to explain the most complex patterns in the simplest manner.

Curved Seam Dress from Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro.

Recently she feature this curved seam dress and I immediately decided that I needed to make one using my block.

Drafting the pattern took a couple of hours but the toile was very quick to sew up.

Toile no. 1

Toile no. 1

This was toile number 1.  I’m was quite pleased with it.  The pleats on the upper section work well and the neckline is good.  However, I did think I could do better, and in particular decided to move the pleats on the lower section as it all looks a bit long and boring in the centre

Toile no. 2

So, this is toile number 2.  The back and upper front are the same as the  original toile.  The lower section is the same except I have added a new pleat towards the top and removed the very bottom pleat. I have also sewn the pleats downwards rather than upwards, I’ll probably change the direction on the upper pleats in a finished dress too, stops them from becoming crumb catchers!

This is better but I am still not sure.  Perhaps my curved seam could do with ending up a few inches higher. I also feel it’s a bit lose around my waist – I may try just pulling it in a bit at the side seams.  I also want to rethink those capped sleeves and lower the arm holes a bit further.

I have some lovely red stretch crepe from Dragonfly Fabrics which is just crying out to be made into a flatter in dress.  What do you think, am I just being too pernickety about my toile and should recognise that calico will never be a flattering fabric?  Or do you think I should have another go and make a third toile?



4 thoughts on “Pattern Puzzle

  1. Hi Jane, thanks for sharing your work and using our pattern making instructions. And btw excellent work with the toiles. 🙂 You are absolutely correct about the alteration to the side seam. It is to stop the underarm gaping with out the sleeve. Please note I have also dropped the underarm point to make the armhole more comfortable (1-1.5cm/3/8-⅝”).
    The shaping on the back seam will help improve the shape of this dress at the waist. It is also where I like to put the zip. I agree with your idea of lifting the curve a little higher on the hip and closer to the waist.
    Is it possible to see the back of the dress? I think there might be something going on there I would like to look at. Feel free to post here or Facebook or email me direct. 🙂 🙂

  2. Pingback: Pattern Puzzle Continued | Jane's Sew & Tell

  3. I’m with you on lowering the armholes a bit, and slimming the fit through the waist. I am curious to see what Studio Faro has to say about the back. I don’t have an opinion one way or the other on the sleeves. Your end fabric, and all of the proper finishing make such a difference.
    I have been eyeing the Chapman dress for a project I have in mind. Although, I’m keen on this one, too. I’m excited to be able to see you work through this. I think you’re going to end up with a fabulous dress:)

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