Thank you for your helpful comments on my last post about fixing the Emma dress. I thought I would quickly update you on what I did. This is not by way of being a tutorial, it worked for me but I wouldn’t be so presumptuous as to say it will work for anyone else.
Just to remind you I wanted to increase the bust on my dress by 1.5cm on each side. The dress has princess seams but I needed to avoid changing the design line which runs along the bottom of this picture. So what I did:
1) I marked the point on the side front pattern piece where the bust is at it’s largest (red mark)
2) I placed the pattern on a new piece of paper and drew a line parallel to the grain line 1.5cm from the edge of the pattern at my red mark (red line)
3) I traced around the outside of the pattern pieces from X to Y, around the arm hole seam, the side seam and the design line – these are the lines I wanted to leave unchanged
4) I pivoted the pattern from X until the red mark met the red line and traced around from X to the red line (new blue line)
5) I then returned the pattern to it’s original place and pivoted it from Y, again until the red mark met the red line and traced from Y to the red line (new green line)
6) I measured the difference between where the blue and green lines met the red line – 2cm and then smoothed the curve over this area. This produced my new side panel.
7) For the centre panel I worked out where the red mark would come on the inner part of the princess seam and cut a horizontal line across the pattern (at right angles to the grain. line). I then added in 2cm of paper between the two pieces and taped it back up.
Result – it now fits across my bust much better. It’s a little large in the waist so maybe I should have just pivoted from a point a bit higher than Y (but I’m not too bothered).
I’m not sure if I can use this method on the lining, but if the worst comes to the worst I will just use the shell pattern rather than the separate lining pattern.
I’ve also made some decisions about the dress. I popped to Berwick Street last week to see what was available and found some rather nice black and blue lightweight wool. I’ve also decided that sleeves are a must so have been playing around with my drafting some from my block.