Jacket Toile

Last weekend I moved flat and spent most of the week unpacking and running backwards and forwards to Ikea. Funny, I’ve never had any problems with their products in the past but two items I bought this week had faulty components. Ikea furniture is great but their customer service is possibly the worst. Anyway most things have been unpacked now. I just need to work out how to fit all our pots and pans into our incredibly badly designed kitchen (large but with no storage or work space!)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI took the opportunity of a few quiet hours this weekend to make a toile of my jacket. The
pattern I am using is Burda 102 03/2013. Thank you for all your useful suggestions from my last post particularly the link to the tailoring sew along. Having read through this I think I will follow her construction method as it’s my first jacket and it’s clear this is taking me into a whole new world of techniques.

Some thoughts occurred to me as a I made my toile;

Firstly, I should probably try to be more accurate when tracing Burda patterns. I originally started by trying to trace onto manilla parcel paper using tailors carbon paper and a wheel, however I didn’t find this very satisfactory. It’s difficult to get carbon paper of any size and if you move it as you trace you can knock your pattern out of kilter. Also the marks left are quite indistinct, I really need large sheets of dark coloured carbon paper for this to be successful but I’ve not found a source in London as yet.

A friend suggested a better (though slightly more destructive way) would be to use a spiked wheel. To do this I place a foam board on my kitchen work surface, then a layer of brown paper and lastly the pattern. The spiked wheel punctures through to the foam board which protects the work surface. I use the kitchen work surface rather than a table as its slightly higher so puts less strain on my back. This works very well and gives me a clear line. The problem is that I then go over the line free hand with a thickish felt pen. I think I need to rethink this step and use a finer pen and probably guide it with a ruler or French curve.

How do you trace your Burda patterns? Have you found a good source of carbon paper in the UK?

Secondly, I need to get a grips with sewing notched collars. I did this one late at night using a mixture of Burda’s instructions and my own intuition. It didn’t really help that I had obviously missed the mark on the pattern piece where the notch was supposed to go. This morning I looked it up in my DK Sewing Book and found a much simpler method of making them.

20130304-133851.jpgThirdly, the dart is quite tricky on this jacket and incorporates a horizontal seam which runs at right angle to the bottom of the dart legs. If I do make a mess of this the pocket pieces will hide the worst of it, but for myown satisfaction I’d like to get it right.

Lastly, I really need to spend some time practising sleeves. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t. I have a feeling the difference is to do with the amount of ease in a sleeve (but on this jacket I seem to have one sort of ok and the other really bad so that doesn’t apply here). I’m also really bad at working out which is the front and which is the back of a sleeve

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo what do you think of the fit on this toile (apart from the fact that I am so lopsided)? I find it difficult to tell given that the calico I’m using is very light and drapey and I intend to make the jacket in a medium weight wool.  I think it would be more flattering if it were a bit more fitted around the waist, maybe starting with a smaller size might help.

I’ve got a curved wrinkle that runs from the armscye over the top of my breast, on the pictures it only came out on one side but it’s apparent on both when I stand in front of the mirror.  I probably need to pinch that out, but I need to be careful of not taking fabric out across my bust as it fits quite well there. Have you any suggestions as to how I fix this?

I’ve also got a bit of dragging under the bust where I think it’s being pulled from the back, I have a broad back so I may be able to fix this by letting out a bit on the arm/side seams.

Lastly, the back looks too big to me.  Almost as if I could do with a smaller size. Again it’s difficult to tell in the calico as the added structure of a firmer fabric might help.

15 thoughts on “Jacket Toile

  1. i would agree it looks too big across the back. and possibly in the sleeves as well. could you take out a smidge of length above the bust? as that wrinkle on the front looks like a length problem rather than a not enough fabric problem? when i made my jacket, i was terrified that it wouldn’t fit once i got the lining in, but it was actually fine once you are putting on slippery lining rather than rough calico!

    • Taking a smidge above the bust sounds like a great idea – I have had this problem with other garments but my books haven’t been very clear as to how I can resolve it. I’ll try your suggestion.

  2. I trace all my patterns using a roll of white plastic tablecloth. It comes in 10m rolls and is cheap & easy to see through. Look forward to seeing your finished jacket!

  3. I’m about to launch into the tailored jacket zone myself….very interested to read about your progress! I’m trying that biker style jacket you highlighted from March Burda…I’m also reading the Claire Schaeffer books for tips…wonderful! Also watched a new online class at Pattern Review by Angela King re making a first jacket…helpful to see as well as read about techniques.

    Re tracing Patterns, I ordered a big box of florist tissue paper in white…it’s a bit more robust than regular tissue paper yet it translucent enough to easily see lines and marks. It folds/ rolls up easily for storage and can be pressed with a cool iron to remove creases. The box lives under the guest bed. It also works as a tearaway stabiliser….I trace with a ball point pen…I find Sharpies too thick and they bleed through.

  4. I use multiple sheets of Carbon paper between butcher paper and the pattern sheet and trace with an adjustable double wheel bumpy tracing wheel from Clover. I lay everything flat and place small books (cans work too) at a couple of points to stop things moving. Works well for me. The jacket’s coming along well-could do with some ease reduction in the back do you use CB seams? I find it really helps with taking in just the right amount especially at the curve of the back..

  5. I splashed out and bought a roll of pattern paper/tracing paper from Morplan. It was expensive but then again, I got 300 meters. I’ve not looked back! It’s so much quicker than anything I’ve used before and I’d tried everything so long as it was cheap.

    You’ve done a lot of work for someone who’s been to IKEA hell and back! I’d probably suggest going for a smaller size but keeping length or comparing to your block if you have one – it’s hard to guess when the eventual fabric is going to be thicker.

    Or, putting in a centre back seam and adding some shaping to it rather than a straight line. You could pin this on your muslin and see how it looks. Can’t wait to see how it turns out: I have full confidence in you 🙂

  6. Hi, I just stumbled upon your blog. My experience is only with menswear so take my thoughts with a grain of salt. Do you plan on adding shoulder pads? That would help “lift” the extra fabric above the bust and at the back. If not, I think you need a sloped shoulder adjustment. The idea of adding a center back seam is also a good one. On a man’s jacket that seam is usually quite curved so that it fits over the upper back and then nips in at the waist. Also, I trace my patterns with a product called Swedish tracing paper. I’m not sure if its available in the UK. It’s very durable, in fact, it can actually sewn.

    • I think you are right a shoulder pad is exactly what I need. The final garment will have one and this will make a different to the fit so I should try one in my toile.

      Swedish tracing paper sounds great. I’ve not come across it in the UK but maybe I can order some from the US.

  7. I use the cheap tissue paper that is sold for gift wrapping to trace burda Patterns. The white is quite easy to get hold of and transparent enough to trace the correct size and the markings and numbers and stuff that come on the burda patterns. It does need ironing before using and if you have to join two peices together I would urge you to use the sticks of paper glue that the kids use in school rather than sellotape. Tissue paper is far from indestructable, but I have several patterns on tissue paper that have survived several uses, so long as I iron the tissue as I fold it and put it away (in an a5 sized envelope with copies of the garment from the magazine). The BIG plus is that it is cheap and very easy to get hold of.

  8. Pingback: My first jacket! | Jane's Sew & Tell

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