I’ve learnt (the hard way) that you need to use a very similar fabric to the one for the final garment for a toile. The fabric I am using for this blouse is quite light and drapy, not at all like the calico I have stashed away for test runs. I therefore decided to make up the shell of the blouse and fit that before adding sleeves and collars etc.
I wasn’t sure exactly which size to make. I’ve read al the instructions about using your upper bust measurement and then altering the pattern pieces to fit your cup size. As I am a D cup and the pattern is written for a C cup I assumed I would have to put in a (small) full bust adjustment. The problem is that my upper bust measurement is only a smidgen smaller and falls in to the same size group as my full bust measurement so I am never quite sure how best to manage bodice fitting (does anyone have any suggestions?)
In the size correct for both full and upper bust, the blouse fits well at the bust and around the arms; the darts are positioned correctly for my body and I don’t feel the need to adjust the armscyes or the length of the shoulder seams. Above the bust though I have about two inches of slack at the top of the central seam and there is a big gape in the back neck. I have tried taking in the central seams at this point but find this causes a strange bulge just below my breasts Also it raises the neck line to a ludicrously high point which I suppose I could fix by cutting the V down further.
How would you go about fixing this – any ideas gratefully received!