Pencil Skirt (again)

Getting this skirt to fit properly is turing into a bit of an epic, however, I am determined to get it right; the material is a dream to sew with and will be lovely to wear when I finish it.

So just to remind you – this is a Burda pattern (109 11/2011) for which I made a toile which I thought fitted quite well.  When I came to make it up in the wool however it turned out too big by several centimetres.  I have taken about 3 cm out of each side seam and also adjusted the top of the back seams so remove the bit of pooling I had above my bottom.  This is how it looks now:


Much better, I possible need to take a smidgeon off the lower part of the side seams (I made the adjustments to the hip area but not lower down) but on the whole an improvement.  The real problem however is the front:

When I made the toile I pulled up quite a bit of fabric under the waistband but you can see there is still far too much fabric.  If I do this again I am going to end up with a skirt that’s shorter in the front than the back and sides.  I think the real problem is that the pattern has two small pleats on either side of the front panel which give it a bit of additional fullness. 

What I think I need to do is to adjust the front panel, removing the pleats so it lies flat across my tummy.   Do you think this will work?

I’m getting lots of experience of taking invisible zips out of side seams and putting them back in!




7 thoughts on “Pencil Skirt (again)

  1. Thanks for the kudos on my shirt! After reviewing your skirt posting, I do think removing the pleats in front would smooth things out. They are typically not seen in a pencil skirt, hence the name, I guess. I’m just wondering if that will affect the two hemline vents, though. It’s looking good, you have more patience than I do!
    Art Attack

  2. I totally understand your frustration – I hate it when a pattern goes wrong. I also wonder about having pleats in a pencil skirt. If your body shape was totally straight up and down (boyish) it may work, but as you have a smaller waist to hips it seems hard to get a good fit. A womanly shape traditionally suits a pencil skirt, but needs to be fitted, so the pleats don’t really work in this situation. I think if it was me I would be tempted to change them to maybe two darts either side. Good luck anyway. I am sure you will end up with a nice skirt eventually!

    • Darts are a good idea, and probably easier to work out than adjusting through the seams. Also I could try basting them in to see if they work and if they don’t go back to my original plan. I think the pattern has pleats because it was made up in satin in the magazine, satin can leave unflattering creases across the body if too smooth.

  3. Hiya – I’ve gotta come back here and check out the comments and your posts on fitting this skirt because I’m going to do one soon and a BurdaStyle one at that. Well, by soon I mean probably this year! Oh sometimes I wish I was faster at this sewing thing….

    • Thank you. I’m extremely slow too, plus I keep getting distracted with other projects. I wish I could learn to be a bit more disciplined!

  4. Pingback: Pencil skirt – fourth post | Jane's Sew & Tell

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