My first jacket!

Looking back on my blog entries I see that I first wrote about this in early March, so it has been a long time gestating.

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Burda 102 03/2013

I spent a long time fitting the toile, taking all your useful advice, adding in the shoulder pads, moving the  darts and so on and in the end had a toile which was, well, completely over fitted.  So I then started again and, with the help of my sewing friend, just took a centimetre out of each of the seams on the back (i.e. 4 cm in total) at the waist level.

Having spent so long on the toile the seasons had changed and the wool fabric I had planned to use was looking a bit too wintery.  A trip to Rolls and Rems in Lewisham yielded some pale duck egg blue linen and silk.  It is a very pretty fabric with a bit of sheen to it, being linen it does crease a lot – you can probably see on the picture above.  I matched it with some French navy coloured lining fabric, it’s a lovely colour and a perfect match for the jacket but possibly a bit too heavy.

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I had originally intended to do a full tailoring job but as fitting the toile took so long I decided to just follow the instructions Burda gave  - which meant a lot of winging it as they weren’t as comprehensive or clear as I could have hoped for.  Inserting the sleeves was fun, I took them slowly; pinning and then tacking them in producing a near perfect sleeve head.  It was only when I tried the jacket on did I realise I’d sewn them in back to front!

The lining also caused me problems, the pattern suggested you included a 2cm ease  pleat at the back.  Unfortunately my lining fabric has virtually no give in it what so ever so 2cm was not nearly enough and I found I couldn’t move my arms at all.  I resolved it by cutting a seam up the back and adding in a stripe of fabric –  I didn’t have enough lining fabric to do this so the strip is in the shell fabric – it’s a bit unusual but doesn’t look too untidy.  If I make the jacket again I will ensure a much wider ease pleat is added.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI’m very pleased with the finished jacket.  It fits beautifully and is very comfortable to wear. I have some Navy linen in the stash that I think will make a perfect dress or skirt to go with it.

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14 thoughts on “My first jacket!

  1. Congratulations!! The jacket came out great! I have not yet attempted one, in the future though I shall. I also wanted to let you know that I won a Pattern Pyramid and have posted it on my blog. There are some terrific patterns in it, so if you were interested, feel free to drop by and enter!

  2. I agree: that’s one lovely jacket! It’s a cute, flattering cut and I’m glad that I bought that Burda as I’m tempted to make it myself.

    A lot of work (the sleeves! I howl in sympathy!) and what a shame that the instructions weren’t thorough. For what’s it’s worth, I’m doing a tailoring course at the moment and would like to assure you that a jacket project that goes from March to May is not slow!!

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