Looking back on my blog entries I see that I first wrote about this in early March, so it has been a long time gestating.
I spent a long time fitting the toile, taking all your useful advice, adding in the shoulder pads, moving the darts and so on and in the end had a toile which was, well, completely over fitted. So I then started again and, with the help of my sewing friend, just took a centimetre out of each of the seams on the back (i.e. 4 cm in total) at the waist level.
Having spent so long on the toile the seasons had changed and the wool fabric I had planned to use was looking a bit too wintery. A trip to Rolls and Rems in Lewisham yielded some pale duck egg blue linen and silk. It is a very pretty fabric with a bit of sheen to it, being linen it does crease a lot – you can probably see on the picture above. I matched it with some French navy coloured lining fabric, it’s a lovely colour and a perfect match for the jacket but possibly a bit too heavy.
I had originally intended to do a full tailoring job but as fitting the toile took so long I decided to just follow the instructions Burda gave – which meant a lot of winging it as they weren’t as comprehensive or clear as I could have hoped for. Inserting the sleeves was fun, I took them slowly; pinning and then tacking them in producing a near perfect sleeve head. It was only when I tried the jacket on did I realise I’d sewn them in back to front!
The lining also caused me problems, the pattern suggested you included a 2cm ease pleat at the back. Unfortunately my lining fabric has virtually no give in it what so ever so 2cm was not nearly enough and I found I couldn’t move my arms at all. I resolved it by cutting a seam up the back and adding in a stripe of fabric – I didn’t have enough lining fabric to do this so the strip is in the shell fabric – it’s a bit unusual but doesn’t look too untidy. If I make the jacket again I will ensure a much wider ease pleat is added.