I have been keen to make this dress since I first saw it in Burda’s February issue. Pictures of the dress made up on Fehr Trade, Sew Tawdry and Cyberdaze (twice) made me even more enthusiastic.
I used some thick, stable, wool-polyamide double knit jersey bought from Cloth House in Berwick St. Unfortunately the first length I bought shrunk in the wash but Cloth House were brilliant and kindly replaced it. It’s a stable knit and was very easy to sew using my Toyota set on a medium width zig-zag. Pressing was another matter, being quite thick it needed a lot of brute force and ignorance to get the seams to lie flat, particularly where the different triangles joined together.
Once I cut out the fabric, sewing it together was relatively quick. This pattern had “sewing course” instructions which were a bit more detailed than the usual Burda instructions, even so I found I had to concentrate a lot to ensure all the seams lined up. A sideways picture of the dress would have helped; even now I’m not sure whether I got my upper left front seam in quite the right place. My first attempt at the main triangle on the front skirt piece had the tip buried in the seam allowance. I was quite tempted to leave it but after seeing Catherine’s red dress I decided to unpick it and rework (I’m glad I did my little perfectionist streak would have yelled at me every time I saw the dress had I not).
I didn’t include the shoulder pleats, once I’d sewn up the arm holes I decided I liked them as they were. Also I made the dress 4cm shorter than Burda’s version, which would have come to my knee and looked to my eye a little frumpy.
The pattern goes a bit overboard on fasteners and asks for a two way full length zip in addition to 3 poppers for the front. As it’s a knit dress which pops over my head quite happily neither of these are really required. In the end I included the zip (1m long from Klein’s in Soho – I managed to get there on one of the rare occasions they are open) but sewed up the front opening.
If I were to make it again I would probably go for a smaller size. The back in particular seems to be quite big and I am getting a little gaping at the back of my neck. In this thick knit it doesn’t matter too much that’s it’s slightly large, but if it were in a stretchier fabric it would show.
I’d like to make this dress again with sleeves for winter. I don’t think a sleeveless dress is entirely practical for someone who feels the cold and putting a jacket over the top would spoil the impact of the back detail.
Oh! I haven’t shown you my favourite bit………………the orange zip maybe not be to everybody’s taste but I love it.
love the contrast zipper! I would love to see this dress in different colours. It is perfect for a colour blocking project!
Thank you – I love it too!
Think this is fantastic Jane. It’s not a dress I would have warned to in colour blocking mode but I really like that you’ve used one colour throughout but added a slash of colour at the back. It’s very designer-looking if that makes sense! Very impressed 🙂
Sorry that was supposed to be ‘warmed to’
Thank you so much! I must admit I am feeling very smug about it, this time last year I wouldn’t have dreamt I could make something like this.
Oh wow- this is wonderful- I love the orange zip- so unexpected!
Thank you!
Love the way you have styled it. Fabulous pop of colourin the back.
Meant to just say “colour on” lol
Thank you. So easy to make a typo!
Wonderful dress and the zip is pure styling! I must lose some weight and make this for myself, although it looks a little warm to wear at present as currently on holiday,in Sevilla temp 45 degrees. Your seams are perfect
Thank you, I’m glad you like it. I am jealous that you are on holiday somewhere hot. It’s definitely not too warm to wear in Suffolk at present.
Found you by accident looking at the Owl sweater lady, glad that she has some recognition at last. I am a novice at Facebook but hope to be able to keep looking at your blog as a fellow sewer
Your dress looks wonderful! I especially like the surprise of the orange zipper in the back.
Kind words, thank you
Ooooh, your dress is GORGEOUS!! The orange zip is spectacular, what a terrific idea! This is such a lovely pattern 🙂
It is a great pattern, I don’t think I’ve seen a version I haven’t liked so far
Sweeet! And the zipper is really well inserted as well.
Thank you. Yes I am quite pleased with the way the zip went in. It was easier than a normal zip because of the wide tape.
I love this in grey with the orange zip to make it pop. It is a terrific looking dress on you, and the more subtle piecing in one colour looks great.
This is one of my fave versions of this dress that I’ve seen. I love the grey, and of course, the zip. And it looks fabulous on you.
Oh wow that is very very cool. Love it and the orange zip. Fantastic.
Ooh what a glorious dress – the zipper in the back is so unexpected and fun too!
Thank you so much!
Oh what an amazing fit. You did such a neat job. And I love the orange zip too! 🙂
Thank you. The fit is exactly as the pattern; I’m not sure I would know where to beging to alter it had it not fit! The dress shown in the magazine is much closer fitting but I’m happy with this loser fit particularly as my fabric is quite thick.
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